Kumquat Marmalade-Marmlad Bigarad– is my preferred marmalade for a very good reason – I think it encapsulates the flavours and textures of a fruit like no other and, to top it off, it absolutely beams with an amazing colour.
It is a wonderful way to enjoy an otherwise tart but flavorful little fruit. All that tartness comes through as a glorious full flavoured spread, perfect for your morning toast or gros biskwi.
What is Bigarad?
The name bigarad may have derived from the French ‘bigarade’ which is the Provençal name for bitter oranges. Bitter oranges are also known under other names including Seville Orange, Bigarade Orange, Sour Orange and Marmalade Orange. The popular ‘sauce bigarade’ is in fact made with the bitter oranges.
However, Bigarad is far from being a bitter orange. Bigarad is in fact the creole name for kumquats. The kumquats (or cumquats in Australian English) are edible fruits closely resembling the orange in color and shape but is much smaller, being approximately the size of a large olive. The English name “kumquat” derives from the Cantonese ‘kamkwat’ meaning ‘golden mandarin orange’.
In contrast with other citrus fruits, the peel of the kumquat is sweet and edible, while the juicy flesh is tart.
I first heard of the word kumquats when I first came to Australia and I think it is safe to say that most Seychellois would not have heard of the word!
Varieties of Kumquats
There are quite a few varieties of kumquats, and the two most popular ones are the round kumquat and the oval kumquat ,with the round being the only one that is widely grown in Seychelles and we call it bigarad (fr. bigarade).
There are two types of bigarad in Seychelles. The sour one and the sweet one. The sweet one is less widespread than the sour one and both are edible and have sweet flavoured peel (yes, even the sour one).
In this post when we refer to kumquats- bigarad – we mean the sour one.
Medicinal Benefits of kumquats
Kumquats contain a wide variety of essential oils, including limonene, They also contain fiber, potassium, calcium, vitamin C, beneficial fats, and vitamin A. The skin is full of fiber and antioxidants (substances that can protect your cells). Kumquats are also cholesterol-free , low in fat and sodium and rich in fiber .
The vitamin C and plant compounds in kumquats help bolster the immune system to fight infections and may help reduce your risk of certain cancers.
Uses of kumquats in Seychelles
The kumquat plant symbolises wealth and good luck in Seychelles and is often grown close to the main house. The sweet kumquats can be snacked on like any fruit, but the sour ones , although they have sweet peel, can very spicy and sour . Sour enough to make your eyes water! The spiciness originates from the high concentration of essential oils in the fruit. Sometimes we eat them with salt to minimise the sharpness of the sour juice.
Apart from making marmalades, we use the kumquats as an alternative to lime or lemon or even vinegar in salad dressing. We also use it as souring agent in curries and grilled fish as well as adding it into freshly crushed chilli for a refereshing chilli sauce.
The Seychellois also prepare Kumquat juice with sugar and a sprinkle of salt into a very popular tropical lemonade. Ideal for rehydration.
The leaves are traditionally infused and served hot as a tea to treat fever, colds, coughs and other inflammation of the respiratory tract. They were once used as one of the ingredients in a ‘bain de pied’ or bennpye. The ‘bain de pied’ in Seychelles is not a foot bath but more of a herbal and spice steam bath whereby one sits, fully covered with a bed sheet, next to a container filled with hot water in which a selection of leaves of spice plants are infused .
Could my kumquat marmalade be a jam?
When my marmalade is done, it looks more like a jam than a marmalade because a lot of the skin has melted away. So, is it a jam or a marmalade?
Generally, marmalade is a citrus based spread that includes peel to add subtle tart/bitter notes to balance the sweetness. But what happens if it is a type of citrus where the peel is not bitter but sweet, and you cannot reasonably eat the fruit without the peel, because the juice is too tart? I will still call it a marmalade.
Selecting and storing Kumquats
Select firm kumquats that have glossy rinds without cracks or blemishes. Soft fruits can spoil rapidly. Avoid kumquats that are shrivelled. If possible, choose fruits with freshly picked leaves still attached. Kumquats will keep for a few days at room temperature. You can refrigerate them in a plastic bag for up to a month.
Before we start preparing the marmalade let us discuss a few pertinent aspects of the process.
Slicing the kumquats
There are a few different ways to prepare kumquats for kumquat marmalade, but regardless of the method, the peel is always central to the preserve. Some people slice the fruits into strips vertically, cutting them into eighths or just chopping them up. In my method, I simply slice the kumquats into small rondels, which leaves full rounds of the tiny fruits in the finished product. Since I want to really play up the uniqueness of these tiny fruits, I find the rounds make for a striking presentation. There aren’t any other citrus fruits tiny enough to cut into rounds for marmalade, so this kumquat jam catches your attention. Unfortunately, many of the little rings of kumquats will, unfortunately, come apart as you cook the marmalade.
Whatever you do, do not use a food processor because you don’t want the seeds blended into the marmalade. It will make it very bitter.
The Kumquat Peel
Citrus peel has a bitter flavour due to its high concentration of flavonoids. The bitterness in the peel is what gives this marmalade its unique flavour.
Essential oils
The peel of the kumquats is also high in essential oils. In creole essential oil from citrus fruits is called sedra (fr. cédrat). Kumquat essential oil is high in Limonene, which gives the oil its fresh, citrusy aroma and uplifting abilities but can also cause discomfort and irritation on delicate skin and lips. Some people may feel this discomfort when eating kumquat marmalade.
Pectin
The Kumquat also has a very high level of pectin in the pith under the peel as well as on the seeds. The pith is the white, inner part of the skin. Pectin is a naturally occurring substance in fruit that makes sweet preserves thicken. Not all fruits have pectin and those that are low in pectin need added pectin in order to gel. For this kumquat marmalade we do not require any added pectin. It will gel with its own pectin. Be aware that this pectin can have a little bitterness to it and this is what gives the marmalade its specific characteristic.
Kumquat seeds
Beyond their tartness, another surprising thing about kumquats is the seeds. Most kumquats have seeds although some may have very small seeds that are negligible. For such a small fruit they have some impressively large seeds that will need to be removed before the slices go into the marmalade.
As you’re slicing the kumquats, you’ll find a pocket of seeds towards the center. Simply use the tip of your knife to pull them out and set them aside. Do not throw them away because they are actually important to marmalade. The trick is, while you need the seeds in the marmalade pot as a thickener, you don’t want them in the finished marmalade.
How do you extract pectin from the seeds?
There two main methods to extract pectin from the kumquat peel. One way is to wrap the seeds up in a bit of cheesecloth and boil it with the kumquat and remove them towards the end before the sugar is added. The other way is to still wrap them up in a bit of cheesecloth but place them in small bowl with about 250ml of water and let it stand overnight. Squeeze it the next day and most of the pectin would have been transferred into the water. This water should be part of your original water measurement for the recipe and not extra.
Sugar Amounts for Kumquat Marmalade
The amount of sugar in this marmalade recipe is a matter of preference. Just like any fruit, kumquats can be really tart or only mildly tart, depending on their source. If you have fruit that is pretty sweet to start with, less sugar might be a good choice. Likewise, if you have very tart fruit (or you like very sweet marmalade) more sugar is always an option. Either way, the marmalade gels just fine since the citrus seeds are in there adding extra pectin and helping to bring everything together.
How can you tell if my Kumquat Marmalade-Marmlad Bigarad– is ready?
It can be tricky to know how runny or thick marmalade should be, especially when it is still cooking. Once cooked marmalade cools, it will thicken up, I promise. But when can you stop cooking marmalade?
The cold plate method
I rely on the cold plate method for determining how far along marmalade is. You can spoon a dollop of hot marmalade on a plate and put it in the freezer to chill, or spoon some over an icy cold plate fresh from the freezer. If the mixture wrinkles slightly when you draw a spoon or finger across it, it has reached the setting point. Your marmalade is ready to go!
Don’t overcook your marmalade because the peel will become chewy and the sugar will caramelise. Therefore be careful how high you push the temperature before you stop cooking.
I prefer a slightly dark marmalade.
I prefer my marmalade to cook to the upper end of the range of the gelling point and this is about 105°C. This gives me a little darker and a deeper flavoured marmalade which is much thicker, but with a touch of dribble to it. The peel is firmer, and the flavour is completely different. The citrus flavour is still there, but it’s not as bright. The caramel undertone is coming through and there’s a bit of a bitter orange flavour that lingers. You may decide to go for a lighter marmalade by cooking it less. The choice is yours.
By the way, kumquat marmalade takes 24-48 hours for the natural pectin to fully develop and set up completely. If your marmalade is still a little runny looking when it cools, check again in a day or two. I bet it will be fine.
Thank you Molly and Roger Hoareau for your beautiful gift of ripe bigarad.
Here is the recipe for Kumquat Marmalade-Marmlad Bigarad
Kumquat Marmalade-Marmlad Bigarad– is my preferred marmalade for a very good reason – I think it encapsulates the flavours and textures of a fruit like no other and, to top it off, it absolutely beams with an amazing colour.
- 1 kg Kumquats, washed
- 1 litre water
- 2 tsp grated orange rind
- 1.5 kg white sugar
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Slice Kumquats in rondels and remove the seeds as you go along and keep.
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Place the sliced kumquats in a large pot
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Place a small plate in the freezer to be used to test your marmalade.
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Use a muslin cloth to wrap up all the seeds and tie with kitchen string to make a bundle, leaving one length of string quite long. Place the small bag into the pot, using the string to tie onto the handle outside the pot, so it's easy to pull out later. ( note 1)
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Add the water to the pot and bring to a rapid simmer. Lower the heat and simmer gently, covered, until rind is soft. Depending on how thick the kumquat skin is, and how thin you've cut it, this takes anywhere between 25- 50 minutes.
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Check regularly after the 25 minute mark – if it's still got a bit of bite, leave for another 10 minutes and then check again
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Once rind is soft, remove the muslin bag, squeeze out the excess juice (careful: hot!) and discard.
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Add the sugar and stir to dissolve completely. Bring to a rolling boil and boil for about 30 to 45 minutes stirring occasionally( note 6).The rolling boil is crucial to ensure that the sugar and pectin gel properly. The less sugar, you use, the longer it will need to boil to reach the setting point
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In the mantime, sterilise your jars by filling a large pot 3/4 full with water, set over high heat and bring to a boil. Place your jars into the boiling water and make sure the water covers the jars by at least 5 cm. Boil for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the lids and leave everything in the pot until the marmalade is ready. ( note 4)
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To test if jam is ready, grab the plate from the freezer, drop a teaspoon of marmalade on it, stick it back in the freezer and wait one minute. Remove plate from the freezer and drag your finger through the marmalade. If it wrinkles, it's ready to jar. If it doesn't, simmer jam for another 5-10 minutes, and repeat the process. Do not overcook the marmalade because it can burn and you’ll be left with a caramelized mess!
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Once your marmalade wrinkles, it's ready to be poured into jars. Remove marmalade from the heat and let it settle for 5 minutes
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Using a clean spoon, remove and discard the scum that collects around the edges of the pan. Carefully spoon hot marmalade into the glass jars. Lid them and let cool!
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This jam will last in a cool, dark place for 12 months, refrigerate after opening.
- You may decide to collect the seeds, place them in small bowl with about 250ml of the water, stand overnight. Next day, strain seeds, reserve liquid (this now contains pectin, which contributes to the setting of the jam); discard the seeds. This process may not be necessary because there is enough pectin in the skin of the kumquats to make it set.
- The less sugar you use, the longer it will need to boil to reach the setting point.
- If your kumquats have no seeds or very small seeds do not worry, your marmalade will still set because there is enough pectin in the skin to make it set.
- You can also sterilise your jars by placing them on a tray and leave in a 100 degree C oven for 20 minutes.
- You can also test the readiness of the marmalade by placing a teaspoon of the mixture onto the chilled plate and allowing it to sit for 30 seconds. Tilt the plate. The mixture should be a soft gel that moves slightly. If mixture is thin and runs easily, it is not ready.
- Another thing to bear in mind, is not to continuously stir the marmalade once the sugar is added as it will cool the marmalade and setting point will be difficult to reach – just stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
- Make sure you are using wide large pan (rather than tall slim pot). The larger the pot, the wider the area of the marmalade mixture, which helps with boiling down and reducing (evaporating) the marmalade to perfect thick texture.
Did you make this recipe?
I hope you will enjoy cooking this dish. Please let me know how it turned out for you. If you have a different version of the recipe or have related questions, please leave your comments below.
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I hope you will enjoy cooking this dish. Please let me know how it turned out for you. If you have a different version of the recipe or have related questions, please leave your comments below.
